What a time here in El Salvador!

When Doctora Violeta Menjivar, San Salvador’s Mayor, invited me to attend, as her honored guest, the Festejos Agostinos 2007, I knew that the festival was a major holiday time for the city. But experiencing many of the events of that jam-packed time, plus other meetings of mutual interest, gave me a much fuller appreciation of what this festivity means.

This was my third trip to El Salvador. In 2001, I visited the country, mostly in La Libertad, for a month. Then, last year, I returned as an electoral observer for the municipal elections—the same elections in which Dra. Menjivar won the mayor’s race in San Salvador.

El Salvador is important for the District of Columbia and Ward One in particular. An estimated 25%--one in four--of our Ward one residents are Latinos, and 80% of that total are from Salvador. Indeed, nearly all of our Ward One elementary schools have a student population of 60% of more Latino--again with the large majority from El Salvador. Knowing the native country of so many of our residents is important to anyone who appreciates, as do I, the rich diversities of our neighborhoods.

Let me briefly recap some of the highlights of what has been a very busy three-week period. I attended about a dozen meetings, with elected and appointed officials, discussing substantive issues of mutual concern, including crime, gangs, street vendors, possible city to city exchanges. I was the guest of honor at the opening Gala, where in attendance was the United States Ambassador. I attended art exhibits, concerts, and sporting events—including judo and the track marathon. At both events I helped present medals to the winners. (It’s noteworthy that one of the Councilmembers, a young lady in her 20s, is a gold medal winner in judo from the Pan American games!)

Much time was spent discussing crime and related issues such as gangs. I was interested in hearing that, of the approximate 3000 homicides annually, hardly any are solved...giving rise to a feeling of impunity (impunidad total). I was able to discuss the exchanges we have already had on the gang issues (including a meeting in DC with officials form El Salvador which I hosted a couple of years ago) as well as the successful intervention approach we have taken. They were very interested in knowing more.

The highlight of course was the presentation of the key to San Salvador by the Mayor and Council which had voted unanimously in favor of this honor. My chief of staff, Ted Loza (who was with me throughout), received a very handsome certificate. The Festival itself was dedicated to immigrants abroad this year, thus our recognition was deemed fitting since we represent so many Hermanos Lejanos (brothers far away). For both Ted and I it was a very special moment. We presented Mayor Menjivar with a resolution from the DC Council declaring the month of August a time of friendship between the peoples of our two cities.

Another great highlight were the two parades, just one day apart, which drew many thousands of people. The first celebrated mail deliverers (Desfile de Correo) and the second the businesses (Desfile de Comercio). With all of the bands and float after float of beauty queen winners, it was quite a time—reminding me in some ways of our great Caribbean Carnival parade of Georgia Avenue (easily, one of the great days in DC!) But here, we tossed candy (dulces) not beads. Teddy and I were in a carriage drawn by two horses which followed the Mayor in her vintage auto.

Then on Sunday (8/5) I had the opportunity to walk in a religious procession celebrating the Transfiguration of Christ. On one day alone each year, this statue (which dates to the 18th century) leaves the Cathedral to a nearby church, and then the same day is brought back. First, there were vespers where I sat with the Mayor, and then the walk with the Archbishop---a very slow walk taking several hours due to the large number of people. It was a very spiritually moving event. (Since it rained part of the way, I was glad to have my Ward One umbrella.)

Visits outside San Salvador were an important part of the trip as well. We went to the historic cities of Santa Ana, Santa Tecla, Suchitoto, and San Miguel. In Sushitoto—a historic colonial city—we met with the Mayor to discuss issues of mutual concern, including a recent protest there. Suchitoto was the site of great conflicts, and a tragic number of massacres during the civil war. We also made a point of traveling to San Miguel (a two hour plus drive) where we met with the colorful and very popular Mayor (elected three times each time affiliated with a different political party) and represntatives of the FMLN. Many Salvadorenos in DC come from San Miguel so it was an important stop on our visit. We presented Mayor Salgado with a resolution of friendship to the people of his city.

Another Council resolution recognizing the life and death of Monsignor Oscar Romero was presented during our visit to the museum at the University. We spent time in the rose garden, where six Jesuit priests and two others were murdered during the civil war, a tragic event that helped bring an end to the conflict. (In 2001 I had visited the actual site of Archbishop’s murder and his humble apartment.)

At my request, we were given a tour of Mariona, a penitentiary just outside San Salvador. In most places, including DC, jails—very sadly-- are not high priorities for funding. And Mariona is no exception—300% over occupancy, and in desperate need of funding for all manner of necessities including beds, electricity, trash collection, medical care, etc. Striking was the statement by the Prison Director that as many as 50% of the 3000 inmates had not been convicted of any crime, and were instead awaiting trial, sometimes for as long as two years. And further, that once trial is convened, about 80% are set free. At Mariona inmates are freed from the cells to walk about for much of the day. Also, on the positive side, was how courteous the inmates were as walked through their compound.

I will also not forget the concluding ceremony at Plaza Barrios, again with the Mayor. Following entertainment, the Mayor lit the fuse to set off the fireworks which for the first time had been incorporated into the festivities. I was by her side—but we were not told to move away quickly—and believe me, it was a close call for us both. The firework display itself was stunning, and seemed to have finale after finale, before finally coming to a close.

And that also is a fair summation of the Festejos Agostinos itself—one highlight was matched by another, as the festivities, and the meetings and visits unfolded. A great mix of serious discussion, and pure fun, all combined around an unforgettable recognition for what we do in DC working together for human welfare.

Muchimos Gracias a Alcaldesa Dra. Menjivar, los Miembros del Consejo y todos Salvadorenos.

Everywhere I went in El Salvador, I was accompanied by armed security guards.

I am standing next to a painting of Will Salgado, the Mayor of San Miguel. The painting depicts the Mayor when he was in the army.

Shaking hands with Will Salgado, the Mayor of San Miguel.

I met with FMLN officials and Ricardo Gonzalez, the youngest member of the National Assembly.

I spent some time with Mauricio Funes, a popular Editorial Director and possible favorite for the 2009 presidential election.

I distributed over 1,000 condoms, a gift from the DC Dept. of Health.

I presented Mayor Will Salgado with a Ceremonial Resolution, declaring a month of friendship between San Miguel and the District.

I concluded my visit to San Miguel with a photo at the top of the municipal building, overlooking the city. What a view!